My time in Mozambique felt very short compared to my other placements. 27 days just seemed to go by in a flash and it felt like just when I was getting comfortable and starting to really enjoy it, it was time to say bye. I guess that is testament to the fact that I did have a good time. I know I will miss it. Just wanted to share my final thoughts on my time there
In my first week in Mozambique, I recall one of the project coordinators highlighting the fact that Mozambicans [perhaps she meant the people of Vilanculos] have grown accustomed to a hand-out culture and are more likely to look to someone else for help than sort things out themselves. Apparently this behaviour is the legacy of the aftermath of the civil war that took place there in the early nineties. I thought it an interesting observation and looked to see if I’d ever encounter this behaviour firsthand. Sure enough a couple of weeks later, I was tutoring a young lad who is currently at high school; just helping him polish his spoken English as he was quite good at reading and writing. He’d been given an assignment to write an essay (in English) about his view on the impact of women’s violence on family life – a pretty intense [and rather vague] topic but he had to have it done for a Monday morning deadline, it was Saturday. Being his English tutor, he presented me with his homework and asked that I write it FOR him! I was slightly puzzled; “surely you mean we should discuss it and bounce some ideas around so that YOU can write the essay”, I said. “No” he replied.” You are a woman and I think you are far more qualified than I am to write the essay and you will be doing me a huge favour and saving me from a potential flogging”, he said as though attempting to corner me. “ I don’t think so”, I said. “I’m very happy to talk about the topic with you but I’m definitely not writing your essay for you”. After pulling some pitiful faces and trying to persuade me unsuccessfully, he gave in to the idea of a discussion. I made him jot down some of the things we talked about; we agreed the structure of the essay and how he’d write the introduction and conclusion. It really was the best I could do in terms of help but I left with the distinct impression that he was unhappy that I didn’t readily agree to write the essay for him and that I stood my ground. At our next lesson, I asked how the essay went and got nothing more than a grunt in response
Things on the project did end up improving due to a mixture of change in attitude and perspective on my part and working closely with the other volunteers to make the most of the project. The pedantic over-management however did not change much and for me, came to a head in my last week. It was a Monday and we were due for a planning session that afternoon. I’d pardoned myself for lunch to spend some time updating the blog and catching up on online activity. I set an alarm and foolishly put on my earphones, so clearly did not hear it ring. I looked up and it was 2.15pm; planning commenced at 2.30pm and the camp was a 45-minute walk away at best. I started to make my way as hurriedly as I could and called to say I was going to be late. I was scolded and told to take a taxi instead of walking. I thought that was ridiculous as taxis in Vilanculos are a complete rip-off, plus I didn’t have the phone number for one [they are not the hailing down kind either]. I settled on walking as fast as I could. I got in just after 3.15pm and was issued with a written warning by a rather irate project manager. She looked like she’d been huffing and puffing for a while. This disciplinary action completely ignored the fact that my tardiness had zero effect on the planning session; that there were already 2 or 3 too many people in the session; my sincere apologies were ignored and it went on record that I was late! Was it really necessary?? I couldn’t help but laugh; I signed the written warning and walked [okay maybe stormed] off! The energy that went into the whole process could have been employed doing something far more productive: some of the children at the pre-school have been there for over a year and still hold their pencils like spears; clearly the work that has been done in the past hasn’t helped them pick up the skill of writing and something needs to be done about it. Recently we had a few Europeans join the camp and were tasked to teach English. A few of them couldn’t even string a sentence together, how could they possibly teach someone a language they could barely speak themselves?? There is nothing wrong with these people coming out to volunteer but perhaps other projects need to be started that will cater for these non English speakers that would simultaneously impact the lives of the people of Vilanculos. Again, no energy is being exerted in this regard. Rather more effort is put into policing [and frustrating] volunteers, creating a huge dent in morale. This is not to say that my tardiness was right, but the “punishment” meted out was hardly commensurate, reflecting a lack of focus, in my humble opinion!
Saying goodbye was hard, especially with the children at the pre-school. I’d bonded and/or been amused by several of them so I knew I was going to miss them. My favourite child was a 3-year old called Nina. On my first day at the school, she came over to me and lodged herself firmly in my lap, refusing to leave my side. She doesn’t speak a word of English but I speak it to her all the time (I do that with all the kids, I speak to them like they all speak fluent English and it actually works…okay, maybe my expressions speak more than my words but you get what I’m driving at) and she responds in Shitswa and we have little conversations; it’s quite funny. On my last day, I explained to her that I was leaving and may never see her again (this time I had one of the teachers translate). She looked at me with sad eyes and hugged me tightly. As the truck started to pull out from the schoolyard, I saw tears gather in her eyes and she burst out crying; she hardly cries. Have to say it brought tears to my eyes. Don’t think I can recall a time when anyone cried at the sight of me leaving (okay maybe my mom shed a tear or two at the airport when I left for this trip but she also cried on my first day of school so in my books that doesn’t count). It made me very sad
One of the other more amusing kids is a 2.5 year old called Greusia. She is a self-professed diva! For some reason, her mother thinks it appropriate to clothe her in mini-dresses, which she struts around in with her head held high. She bosses the other children around and seems perfectly content to have her way all the time. Strangely, she only likes to be picked up or held by the male volunteers or teachers; I was convinced she hated women. A couple of the other female volunteers and I, as a joke, decided we’d make changing this something of a mission. We played around her and tickled her even though she made it clear she didn’t like it. Then I started to take photos of her, which she apparently liked. One of the male teachers introduced me to her formally and a week or so later she somehow decided I had passed her cool test. She came up to me, called me by name and indicated that I should be her partner in playing with a skipping rope. Thereafter she started coming up to me and hanging out with me regularly. We all noted the change in her attitude with a lot of amusement. One fine morning, shortly thereafter, I called out to her to come sit next to me and she gave me a look as if to say: “just cause I’ve been nice to you recently doesn’t mean you should get so comfortable, I will come to you if I feel like it”. Sure enough, she came over when she was good and ready! She is something else, that child! If I’m ever back in Vilanculos I will be sure to look her up, just out of curiosity. Lord knows how she will turn out
All in all, Mozambique was a great experience! Great food, beauty all around; in the people, the landscape, the beaches, the brilliantly cloudless blue skies, the sunrises and sunsets, the splendidly starlit nights…all of it. I was grateful for the opportunity to be there even if only for a spell
